The palace appeared as if in a dream. Sunlight danced on the canal, drawing attention to the magnificent structure that seemed to belong to the landscape. I mounted my bike, feeling the warmth of the sun through the trees as I rode along a secret path. The vibrant foliage of the trees formed a canopy above me, while vast fields stretched out around me. No one else was to be seen but, only a short distance away, hundreds of people filled the opulent ballrooms of the Palace of Versailles.
I had found myself in the beautiful Park of Versailles – the sprawling 800 hectare sanctuary for the royalty and politicians of pre-Revolutionary France. Versailles was the embodiment of power and the symbol of absolute monarchy until the French Revolution of 1788-1799. The palace served as a stage for royal weddings and diplomatic visits, but the vast estate was primarily designed for leisure and indulgence.
Over the centuries, Versailles has become one of the most renowned and visited palaces globally, attracting 27,000 daily visitors to its Hall of Mirrors. However, beyond the palace walls lies an expansive story, one that stretches for kilometers and cannot be explored on foot in a single day. The network of bike paths offers a glimpse into the fresh air, solitude, and lesser-known aspects of Louis XIV’s grand vision.
As Mara Alfaro Prias, a Paris-based tour guide, explained, “When you go to the gardens, you’re cycling… and you get to know more of the story of Louis XIV, XV, and XVI. It’s not just what was behind the paintings or the chandeliers.”
Louis XIII originally built a hunting lodge in the countryside surrounding the small town of Versailles, roughly 20km southwest of central Paris. However, his son, Louis XIV, had grander ambitions for the grounds.
According to Mathieu da Vinha, the Research Centre of the Palace of Versailles’ scientific director, Louis XIV sought a space to create a “bachelor pad” for intimate gatherings and extravagant parties. “So, he’ll create Versailles, partially for his pleasure, for his sexuality, with amazing gardens,” added Michel Vergé-Franceschi, co-author of Une Histoire Érotique de Versailles.
Visitors can rent bicycles near the park’s Grand Canal, offering a unique way to explore the meticulously designed gardens envisioned by André Le Nôtre, the king’s gardener. Hélène Dalifard, the palace’s communications director, explained, “The gaze is always guided toward a particular effect… the idea is really to imagine the garden as a museum in which the visitor thinks they’re taking a random stroll, while in reality, they’re completely guided by the effects of perspective.”
The park is filled with optical illusions, hidden groves, and subtle references to the sun, reinforcing the connection between Louis XIV, the Sun King, and Apollo, the Greek god of the sun. “Versailles was the king’s theatre,” said Vergé-Franceschi.
Cycling along the bike paths, framed by towering trees, one can’t help but feel a world away from the bustling palace. Throughout the passage of history, the grounds have played host to numerous royal gatherings, secret rendezvous and extravagant parties. Despite its air of exclusivity, the park has traditionally remained open to the public, and today, Versailles continues to welcome visitors to its gardens and park.
As I returned my bike and left the park at sunset, the palace lights flickered in the distance. The gates closed, leaving the Sun King’s labyrinth of fountains, groves, and bike paths in solitude – until the next day. As I pedalled along the park’s winding trails, I began to uncover more of the its rich history. This vast estate was the backdrop for the romantic escapades of many of France’s monarchs and members of its aristocracy, including Louis XIV and his first official mistress, Louise de La Vallière. The two would sometimes rendezvous here, indulging in hunting adventures and horseback rides.
The park also hosted grand celebrations, such as the Party of the Delights of the Enchanted Island, which spanned multiple days and featured carousels, fireworks, and performances by the famous French playwright Molière. “Since the chateau was too small before Louis XIV enlarged it, the parties mostly took place in the gardens,” explained da Vinha.
Versailles has a history of royal retreats within the estate itself. For instance, Louis XIV commissioned the Grand Trianon at the northern end of the Grand Canal in 1670 as a private haven from the main palace. Just a five-minute bike ride from the rental stand, the salmon-pink marble structure appears like a hidden gem among the landscape.
Not far from the Grand Trianon is the Petit Trianon. It was commissioned by Louis XV for his mistress, the Comptesse du Barry, in the middle of the 18th century. Later on, Louis XVI gifted the Petit Trianon to Marie-Antoinette who spent a great deal of her time there. The history books show us that the isolation of the monarchy at Versailles also played a significant role in the French Revolution for, as the royal family continued to live in luxury and opulence, the native French people struggled with starvation. This lead ultimately to the storming of the palace grounds in 1789.
“Versailles contributed to [Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette] being disconnected from reality,” said Vergé-Franceschi. In the years following the Revolution, the palace and its gardens were absorbed by the Republic for public conservation.
With my exploration drawing to a close, I returned my bike and left the park as the sun dipped below the horizon. The darkness enveloped the roads and pathways, the distant palace lights barely visible. As night fell, the gates of Versailles closed, leaving the Sun King’s intricate network of fountains, groves, and bike paths to rest in solitude – ready for the next day’s visitors to discover the hidden stories of the park.