Paris, the city of love, captures hearts with its tree-lined boulevards, illuminated bridges, exquisite culinary experiences, and inviting café terraces perfect for people-watching. The enchanting atmosphere of the French capital captivates visitors at any time of the year, day or night.
Morning
Exploring the Louvre’s vast collection of artwork can be daunting, but following a self-guided themed trail makes the experience more enjoyable. For romantics, the “Mighty Aphrodite, Mythical Love Stories” tour is an ideal choice. This 1½-hour journey showcases the passionate tales of legendary literary figures such as Eros. The tour can be downloaded online and admission is £9 (closed on Tuesdays).
Start your day with a leisurely stroll along the picturesque Seine River, making your way to the Île de la Cité and Île St-Louis. As you continue, cross the Pont de l’Archevêché, Paris’s narrowest road bridge, adorned with love locks left by couples symbolizing their eternal commitment.
The Île St-Louis is renowned for its Berthillon ice cream, which has been a Parisian favorite since 1954. Choose from 70 tantalizing flavors, including pear sorbet and salted caramel at Maison Berthillon or indulge in a croissant and coffee at Le Flore en l’Île, another outlet on the island (two scoops of ice cream for £7, pastries from £2).
Afternoon
Experience the intimate world of French romanticism at Musée National Eugène Delacroix, located in a charming courtyard studio in the 6th arrondissement. The famous artist resided here until his death in 1863. Although many of his well-known works are displayed at the Louvre and Musée d’Orsay, this museum houses personal pieces, such as “An Unmade Bed” (entry £4, free with Louvre ticket).
Before lunch, wander along Rue Mouffetard in the Latin Quarter, a vibrant street filled with market stalls and specialty food stores. At fromagerie Androuet, you can have cheeses vacuum-packed to take home, while Mococha offers delectable macarons in flavors like raspberry and blackcurrant. Don’t forget to visit Mouffetard Folie’s for unique and charming homeware (51 Rue Mouffetard).
Nestled in the Latin Quarter, Le Coupe-Chou is a hidden gem known among Paris expats. This romantic restaurant, housed in a vine-covered 17th-century townhouse, features a labyrinth of seven candlelit rooms with beamed ceilings and antiques. The menu highlights traditional French dishes such as beef bourguignon that evoke the essence of the countryside. Reservations are recommended, as Marlene Dietrich once dined here (9 & 11 Rue de Lanneau; mains from £14).
Evening
As the sun begins to set, visit the Musée de la Vie Romantique, a small museum and garden located at the end of a cobbled lane in Hôtel Scheffer-Renan. Dedicated to the life and work of novelist Amandine-Aurore-Lucile Dupin (better known as George Sand) and her intellectual circle, the museum is filled with paintings and objets d’art (entry is free for the permanent collection).
For chocolate lovers, Chocolaterie Joséphine Vannier in the Marais district is a must-visit. The shop offers an extraordinary range of edible art, including chocolate musical instruments and shoes. On weekends, indulge in a selection of scrumptious cookies (4 Rue du Pas de la Mule; 100g of chocolates from £7).
End your evening on a high note at Le Vieux Belleville, a bistro situated at the top of Parc de Belleville. This atmospheric venue hosts heartfelt chanson performances, featuring accordions and an organ grinder, capturing the essence of French music epitomized by Édith Piaf. Though song sheets are available, this is not a tourist trap but a local favorite, so be sure to book in advance (12 Rue des Envierges; performances 8pm-2am Thu-Sat; three-course dinner from £20).
Transport
Eurostar connects St Pancras International and Ashford with Paris Gare du Nord, with fares starting at £69. Air France, BA, easyJet, and Jet2 fly to Roissy-Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports from 11 UK cities, with tickets from £80. Ryanair serves Beauvais Airport from Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Manchester. To travel from the airports to the city, use RER trains or express bus services Roissybus or Orlybus. The efficient Paris Métro offers a carnet of 10 tickets for £10, while buses provide scenic but slower transportation. Walking and Vélib’ bikes are also excellent options, with day tickets priced at £1.40.
Where to Stay
In the Latin Quarter, the family-run Hotel la Demeure offers English-speaking staff, iPod docks, and wine glasses for a BYO experience. Corner rooms feature lovely balconies (51 Boulevard Saint Marcel; from £95). Hotel Amour, a former ‘pay by the hour’ establishment, embraces the erotic side of Paris. The black-clad rooms are adorned with artwork, erotic novels, and vintage magazines (8 Rue Navarin; from £130). A stay at the 18th-century Hotel Particulier Montmartre is akin to residing in a modern art collector’s home. The five suites are designed by top French artists, and the hotel hosts rotating exhibitions (23 Av Junot; from £355).